Hi friend!!

Today’s email is about cooking whole fish! It’s something that sounds scary but I actually find it easier, cheaper, and way more delicious than the other ways to make fish. The first time I did it I was very nervous, but now it’s the ONLY way I make fish… and thus I know I must tell you about it!

Before I get into that, I want to share a quick fish story from this week that had me laughing hysterically (at myself) for a good 10 minutes.

I currently have a never-ending to do list (because I am planning a wedding in less than 6 months while there's a mad rush to get married post-covid). There is so much happening that I can’t really keep any information in my head for more than 2 minutes. If you have babies or a busy job or any other kind of overwhelm, I’m sure you can relate to this mind-state.

So… this week I was making a whole fish. I had been storing it in a metal bowl with a gray lid on it (similar to these - highly recommend instead of plastic wrap!) so I couldn’t see what was inside. I had taken this bowl out of the fridge and placed it on the counter because I was about to cook it, but then I got distracted - probably by the dishwasher that needed to be unloaded - and promptly completely forgot what was in the bowl (this is the state of my brain right now). I then took off the lid to see what was inside... and there was a whole fish staring at me!!

Its head was positioned in the bowl such that it was looking RIGHT at me, and this startled me so much that I literally jumped backwards and let out a small scream… which then sent me into fits of hysteric laughter at myself for a whole 10 minutes at the absurdity: I took the bowl out to cook the fish and then completely forgot I was cooking a fish and then got scared by said fish... LOL. 🤣 🤣 🤣

Needless to say… when you cook a whole fish, you are definitely very aware that you’re eating an animal! Maybe not the best selling point for whole fish, but I’m hoping that the fact that I’m still cooking it when stressed will convince you to try it out!

Branzino - soooooooooo gooooooooddddd:

I started cooking fish this way because Alison Roman suggests it in her cookbook, Nothing Fancy. (Mixed feelings on Alison since she got semi-cancelled last year, but… the woman makes delicious food and I have to credit her for teaching me this one.)

I love eating fish, but I don’t often cook it because -

1. the really good fish I want to eat can be very expensive
2. it has to be cooked a day or two after you buy it (added pressure)
3. I find that I often overcook fillets of fish/ am disappointed by it when I make, and it’s an expensive ingredient to practice on…

Cooking fish whole resolves a lot of these problems.

Here are the key points:

• Whole fish is less expensive per pound, and you get more! From my really-fresh-fish guy at the farmers market, whole fish is usually $12-$15 per pound, whereas the fillets are more like $19-25 per pound.
• I make a light, super delicious broth from the bones/tail/anything I don’t eat - add them all to a small pot with water and simmer for 15-30 minutes (or slow cook for an hour).
• Trout and branzino are my go-to favorites so far; make sure your fish is gutted and scaled.
• Yes, it’s more work to eat a whole fish; sometimes you have to pick out bones and such. But it’s SOOOOOOOO delicious… and I think this process is actually a really enjoyable, satisfying experience. I enjoy eating the skin this way as well, although you don’t have to.
• Cooking fish whole is just SO much more forgiving than making a filet. The meat is well contained inside, and it says really moist and flavorful.
• I feel better about keeping whole fish (vs. filleted) in the fridge for a few days if I don't want to cook it right away after buying. Granted, you still want to cook it ASAP but I think it lasts longer whole. (This goes along with my general theory that foods stored in their "whole state" keep longer. Veggie strategies here.)

Here’s how to make it if you want to try. (I highly encourage it! You can do it!!)

1. Buy fresh whole fish (12-16 oz fishies), gutted and scaled. Eat within 1-3 days max from when you buy it.
2. To prepare, rinse the fish quickly and dry it. Rub with oil and sprinkle the outsides and insides with salt (and pepper, if you like). Heat up a large cast iron pan or other large non-stick pan. (I use a 12-inch cast iron and the fish tail hang out but it works!)
3. Heat up the pan nice and hot. Add the oiled fish. Let the fish get crispy on this side, so don’t touch it for at least a few minutes! (Alison Roman says that a “perfectly cooked fish will easily release from the grill, so if you’re struggling to move it, give it another minute or two.”) I’m not sure this theory holds when cooking it in the pan... I've found the fish a tad harder to flip, and sometimes the skin does separate a bit, but it always tastes amazing so just do your best. If you’d like, add a little extra oil and some veggies on both side of the fish (or fishes) and let them brown along with the fish.
4. After about 6-8 minutes, flip the fish, adding more oil to the pan first if needed. Toss veggies/salt them as you like. Let the fish cook another 6-8 minutes on this side. If you’re nervous about cooking it through, you can heat up the oven to about 350 and finish the whole fish in the oven for about 5 minutes. Cooking fish still takes practice, and you need to keep a close eye on it. That said, I find I do a better job/enjoy this method much more than fillets!
5. To serve, squeeze a whole lemon or lime over it, and top with chopped fresh herbs - whatever you have! - and more salt and pepper/a drizzle of olive oil if needed. Seriously this is all it needs! (If you don't have herbs, simply a lemon squeeze will be scrumptious!)
6. Eat the crispy skin, gently pull out the meat with your fork. Try to avoid bones but some will be inevitable.
7. When you’re done, simmer the extra fish parts in a small pot of water for 15-20 minutes and make a delicious light fish broth to freeze or eat later in the week!

Alison Roman's recipe calls for grilling the whole fish. I personally don’t have a grill, but I think this would be better than the pan, so if you have one, definitely go for it (you can still follow the directions above)! That said, I’ve been making this in the pan almost every other week for several months and keep doing it because it’s THAT easy and tasty!

My final selling point is that this meal feels special, but can easily be made in about 15 minutes with no planning other than making sure you have a lemon! I can eat a whole fish myself (usually 12-16oz) for a very satisfying - but still light - meal, but it’s also fun to dig into with someone you don’t mind sharing a plate with - alongside other veggies or a salad, etc.

A whole fish would also be way easier to warm up because you have that skin to protect the meat from getting overcooked - but I don’t think I’ve ever had any leftovers when I've made this!

If you try it - just do your best, and let me know how it turns out!! I promise, you can do it!!

Happy whole-fish cooking (or considering)!

Love,
Jess

Pictures of the fish (a trout) that GOT ME this week below: